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Gecko’s Mali Uromastyx Care Page v2.8

(Why am I still "Gecko" when I've never owned one?)

Spiny Tailed Lizards

uromastyx maliensis

A Personal Note

I've had some outstanding donations which I deeply appreciate, but this year I've received lots of "I'm going to donate soon" messages that end up going unfulfilled. So, I added the Google ads at the top of the page. I hate to do it, but The only reward I get is the occasional thank you note...and they are few and far between. More often, I get questions sent to me by people who don't even read the page, thereby negating all of my effort. What's more than that, I've never received a single penny from the Petsmart.com links which are now gone.

Yet, the information I provide is so valuable that I would never consider taking it down. This page combats the wave of ignorance launched by too damned many petstores that give out deadly advice. It does this while actually taking money out of my pocket. I do it for the helpless animals, always have, always will.

However, I am now accepting donations to help offset the costs of running this website. The solid information contained here could easily be in a $5-$9 book and is worth much more than that. This page has saved the life of literally hundreds of uromastyx and other lizards.

So, if you get a chance, throw a couple of bucks my way via the button. I suggest $2 because the PayPal fees eat 35 cents and 2.9% of the donation, so I only get 62 cents out of a dollar donation. At least with a $2 donation, I'll get about $1.59. We'll never get rich off of this page and that's not our intention. Realistically, I know that the donations probably won't even cover the cost of the webpage, but I thought I'd at least give you all an opportunity. Also, seeing a few donations would certainly help inspire me to pay more attention and give more effort to this page, maybe even get me to reorganize it. Right now this page is nothing but a drain. I'd just like to see it give a little back.

If this info is valuable to you, I would really appreciate it if you would help support it and say "Thank You" by giving a little so I don't lose money. If this page has saved your lizard's life, isn't it worth $2 to say thanks?

If you're interested in how I have such a cool email and web address, you can also support this website by getting a NetIdentity account via this link:

Thanks,
Jason

1. No fee is charged for said document.
2. The document must be reproduced in its entirety.
3. You may not edit or change any information related herein. This specifically includes all references to heatrocks and crushed walnut substrate. You also may not contradict that information in order to make a sale. I care more about the animals than I care about your $5 profit from an item that could likely kill it.
4. You may not imply that this information is your own, nor may you imply that I endorse your specific enterprise.
5. You must provide a copy of the caresheet to anyone who requests it whether they have purchased a uro from you or not. If you cannot provide a copy at that time, you must provide them with a link to this webpage.
6. You should tell the customer to check this website for updates and do more research on their animal. Also, you should update your store copy every month or so.
7. You must Contact Me me to let me know you are distributing copies of this caresheet.
8. If I should ever purchase an animal from you, some kind of reasonable discount is in order.

If this page is trapped in a frame, click here to set it free.

All thumbnail pictures link to larger versions. There is a lot of info on this page which I will update periodically. Use the What's New? page to keep track of it all. Your comments are appreciated and keep me motivated to add more info. - Jason

Bearded Dragons and Uros Together · Here is the official word about housing Bearded Dragons and Uros together from someone whom I would consider an expert.
It's a bad idea, so I hope if you're doing it, you will quickly make alternative arrangements. All bearded dragons are thought to carry coccidia. Susan L., a veterinarian, pointed out that coccidia are protozoans and very annoying ones, at that. "Many animals have their own kind(s) and they cause diarrhea etc, and of course they are very contagious." I guess that's a good thing since virii are so much more difficult to treat. Thanks, Susan!

On 4/26/01 at 3:03 PM Ronnie Buck wrote:

Coccidia is the biggy but you can also add that a uro's tail can easily put out an eye on a dragon. Beardies usually bite at the base of the tail when showing aggressive behavior. There are several other reasons too, like the basking temp ranges (bearides from 95 to 100°) with studies showing that 113° ambient air temps proving fatal to more than 50% of the adult test subjects in a 1 hour period, while others suffered neurological problems from over heating and had to be put down. As with most species, mixing lizards from different geographical locations is just asking for trouble!

Ronnie Buck
Australian Beardies Herpetoculture
Orlando, FL
407-532-7866
www.australianbeardies.com

Past Email · I received this email recently, but the address was not valid by the time I sent my reply. If you are Anthony, please read below and reply:

I have been the proud owner of a mali for alittle over two months now, though that does not make me an expert I have talked to a few others that have reptiles as pets and none of the have UVB lighting, and my mali has lived 5 years in captivity mostly at the hands of a seller without ever being exposed to UVB. As I hear there are studies going on now that are asking the question if they need UVB lighting. Other than that just a few suggestions, I use crushed walnut shell as my substrate, I watched her my entire Christmas break and she never ate the substrate, I think it is more that you have to keep an eye on your reptile to insure it is not doing anything that can harm it. Also here is a food item you can add that my mali lives on with alittle variety, her main source of food is Giant Eagles Spring Mix that is a prepared salad that she loves, though she eats all other kinds of veggies she refuses to hunt crickets, who knows why.
Thanks for your time!
Anthony

My Reply:

>I have been the proud owner of a mali for alittle over two months now, though that does not make me an expert I have talked to a few others that have reptiles as pets and none of the have UVB lighting

Hi Anthony,
Not all reptiles need UVB lighting. Diurnal lizards and turtles are about the only ones who absolutely require it. Snakes simply do not need it. If your contacts have snakes, then they're safe. If they have iguanas, they are pretty much as good as dead. I have very, very limited contact with iguanas, but I have personally saved the lives of five iguanas whose owners were not providing UV-B lighting. They were all in early stages of metabolic bone disease. A certain Pet Warehouse in my former hometown was very apt to sell $9.95 iguanas with a ten gallon cage and heat lamp "starter set".

>, and my mali has lived 5 years in captivity mostly at the hands of a seller without ever being exposed to UVB.

Then, that person was providing inadequate care. Period. That person obviously never bothered to read a single piece of literature about them. Every single uromastyx breeder uses UV-B and you won't find a single care sheet which doesn't recommend UV-B lamps or direct exposure to the sun.

>As I hear there are studies going on now that are asking the question if they need UVB lighting.

Please provide a reference for these "studies". By "they" do you mean uromastyx, reptiles, lizards or what? If there is no way to verify this, either by webpage or name of the persons conducting this scientific study then you should consider it merely hearsay. Are these scientific or purely anecdotal studies?

The vast majority of anecdotal and scientific evidence suggests that UV-B lighting works to reverse or prevent Metabolic Bone Disease in diurnal lizards. Your uro received care which is contrary to current trends in uro husbandry and is still alive, but there is a difference between being alive and thriving.

When I read about such a study on Melissa Kaplan's website, then I'll believe it. When I see some sort of verifiable references, then I will consider it and research it further. Until then, it's only rumor.

>Other than that just a few suggestions, I use crushed walnut shell as my substrate, I watched her my entire Christmas break and she never ate the substrate, I think it is more that you have to keep an eye on your reptile to insure it is not doing anything that can harm it.

Well, if you feel comfortable endangering your lizard's life, it's your choice. I doubt most folks can spend seven hours a day watching their lizards.

I would suggest that you join the Uromastyx Mailing List and ask if crushed walnut is a suitable substrate. Talk to some folks who have killed their lizards or caused severe intestinal bleeding because of walnut shell ingestion. I will never, ever recommend crushed walnut shells under any circumstances.

> Also here is a food item you can add that my mali lives on with alittle variety, her main source of food is Giant Eagles Spring Mix that is a prepared salad that she loves, though she eats all other kinds of veggies she refuses to hunt crickets, who knows why.

What exactly is in the salad? The contents should be plainly listed. If it is primarily romaine or iceberg lettuce, then there is very, very little worth in it as those kinds of lettuce are nutritional zeros. A high percentage of cabbage is also bad. Some uros don't go for crickets; mine love them. Every animal is different. Luckily, they aren't a large part of uro diets.
Update:I found a package of "Spring Mix Salad" at the store. It is mostly lettuce, therefore, junk for the purposes of providing your lizards with nutrition. Avoid it.

Like I said on the page, there is no gospel for uromastyx care, but my uro page is well reviewed by probably every person on the Uro Mailing List who breeds uromastyx and the recommendations on the page are sound. Of course, no one knows everything and you should always beware the person who claims that he does. I suggest that you join the mailing list and talk with and learn from lots of folks to learn more about your lizard.

Jason

Overview · Uromastyx maliensis are a species of spiny tailed desert lizards which occur primarily in the landlocked African country of The Republic of Mali. Formerly, they were referred to as "spiny tailed lizards", "Dabb's lizard", or "mastigures", but "uromastyx" is currently the term most commonly used in the herp trade. Uromastyx are diurnal (daytime active) lizards which live in arid conditions. They are primarily herbivores, but are opportunisticly carnivorous when an unlucky insect wanders within eyesight. The areas they inhabit are sparsely vegetated, so life is difficult at best and any available food source is utilized. They are long lived and slow growing lizards due to the scarcity of food and harsh environment.

Uromastyx have many interesting features. While only distantly related to the chuckwallas of the desert southwest United States, they are a fascinating example of convergent evolution since the two separate species have evolved to fill similar niches in their environments. Head size and shape and their methods of defense are strikingly similar.

Uromastyx make fascinating captives. Their individual personalities make them a favorite herp among uro keepers. This webpage attempts to explain proper husbandry and answer common questions related to uromastyx while providing basic knowledge applicable to all reptiles. The page is geared for all levels of knowledge relating to herps. Information on this page is from the Uromastyx Mailing List, email, internet care sheets, and personal experience. There is no gospel when dealing with uromastyx. Read, assimilate, and use what you will.

Caging and Environmental Requirements · Since uros are desert dwellers they require much higher temperatures than other lizards commonly kept as pets. Here is a quick overview of uro care requirements:

• Day/night cycle
  • Summer - 14 hours of daylight
  • Winter - 10 to 12 hours of daylight
• Temperatures
  • Daytime
    • Basking spot - 110°-120°
    • Cool side - around 90°
  • Nightime - around 70°
• Source of vitamin D₃ from UV-B lighting or vitamin supplements
• a secure hide or burrow
• Desert humidity levels of 10%-20%
• A ventilation source to provide fresh air
• Minimum cage size of four times the length and width of lizard
• Uromastyx generally do not require a standing source of water (exceptions are gravid females and dehydrated specimens)

All reptiles are exothermic, meaning they do not generate the heat required for their bodily processes. It must be absorbed from the environment. Therefore, all reptile cages require a "hot side" and a "cool side" so the animal can thermoregulate and control their body temperature. Obviously, a reptile will need more energy to digest recently eaten food, so they will usually bask in the hot area after a meal.

Uros tend to be very long lived lizards because they grow so slowly. Problem is, they haven't been in captivity for long enough to establish concrete answers for lifespan. Ten years should not be a problem, probably longer for some.

Malis reach around 12"-14" when full grown, some can be bigger or smaller. Most uromastyx are medium sized lizards. The biggest species are the monster Egyptians that can reach three feet or longer!

Cage Construction · This is the habitat which I designed and built using melamine and glass. The cage is 40"L x 20"D x 18"T and holds approximately 70 pounds of sand. Plans for this cage should be available online in the near future. After an extensive needs analysis, the cage was designed to meet the exact requirements of uromastyx the size of mine. The construction materials used are ¼" single sided white melamine, ¾" double sided thermally fused white melamine, white iron on edge banding, woodscrews, plastic sliding glass door track, custom cut glass doors, a plastic roof ventilation grate, Liquid Nails, white 100% silicone caulking, two ceramic incandescent lamp fixtures, and one 36" single tube fluorescent fixture. The melamine holds the heat incredibly well. Melamine is a prefinished particle board. The lighter ¼" is used as the back and the rest of the cage is ¾" thickness. Thicker melamine comes in two main types: laminated and thermally fused. Thermally fused is better because the coating is poured on as a liquid and rolled out onto the board. Laminating is just that...applying a seperate piece of plastic with glue. Be sure to ask if you ever purchase melamine. Until the construction article is available, feel free to email me if you have any questions.

Lighting · The lighting is provided by a ZooMed Baskingspot 150W lamp for heat and a single 36" ESU Desert 7%UVB fluorescent lamp to provide UVB. UVB is an abbreviation of "ultraviolet spectrum, B range" and represents a specific range of frequencies of UV light. You may also read about UV-A and UV-C in reference to humans or herps. UV-B is essential for diurnal lizards because it produces vitamin D₃ in the skin which enables the metabolism of calcium. The lizard cannot process calcium into bone without D₃. This results in metabolic bone disease or "rubber jaw" which is a slow, traumatic death. Reptile fluorescent lamps or direct sunlight are the only way to provide UV-B. The special phosphors which emit the UV-B do not last as long as the visible light phosphors, so the lamps have to be replaced about every six months. Exposure to the lamp should be as unrestricted and as close as possible to the animals, since UV-B rays are only effective within 18" and common glass absorbs practically all of the UV-B which hits it. This cage design features 100% exposure for all areas except inside the burrow.

You can choose to provide D₃ by supplements and skip the hassle and expense of lights, but it is very easy to overdose and more difficult to ensure that multiple animals in the same enclosure receive the correct amount.

I chose these lamps specifically because they met the cage criteria perfectly. The ZooMed 150W lamp provides a perfect, bright basking area. The double reflector design concentrates the light into the tightest spot of any lamp I tested and eliminates the need for an external reflector. The ESU Desert 7%UVB lamp is designed specifically for desert species with its higher output of UV-B compared to the overall output of the lamp. It features an attached reflector strip to put more of the light towards the animals and has a pleasing color.

Note: Incandescent lamps are incapable of emitting UV-B in spite of the misleading words "full spectrum" on the box. Their use of "full spectrum" refers to the brighter, fuller spectral output of the lamp, but it does not and should not imply production of UV-B. These lamps do have a whiter look when compared to your average household lamp, but they do not create the "full spectrum" which lizards need.

There is also a 15W ESU Nightlight lamp, but it's only for our use as a nightlight because the sand and rocks hold more than enough heat to maintain proper night temperatures. It looks very cool, too! If your cage is in a heated room of the house, chances are it will maintain a proper nighttime temperature. Fifty pounds of sand is a huge thermal mass, so it won't cool down as quickly as you might think.

The lighting system was on a custom controller of my design which automatically switches between day and night by using only one timer. It used a neat little kludge involving a DPDT relay with a 120vac coil.

Now, it's all controlled from the HomeSeer home automation software and handheld remotes using X-10 technology. Details are available on my X-10 page.

Substrate · I chose regular play sand as the substrate after many hours of debate. It seems there is no perfect substrate for all uros. Babies should generally be kept on paper towels or newspaper. Crushed walnut shells are a bad idea due to their indigestability, despite manufacturer claims. The main factor in my deciding on hardware store Play Sand was the fact that many successful uro breeders like Randy Gray use it successfully. It is also cheap and easily available. My concerns about sand impaction were lessened when I saw the first stool and realized how well they pass sand. Calcium sand has a claimed advantage of being digestible, but it acts as an antacid which neutralizes stomach acids, thereby affecting digestion. Many folks use rabbit pellets or bird seed. These require more frequent cleaning to prevent mold, though.

What about Calcium Sand? Jeff Fisher (King Uro-Strate) had the following to say about it:

1. Mineralization of internal organs if too much is ingested (impossible to regulate dosages)
2. Can change blood/gastric ph levels (both can cause serious harm and death)
3. Inhaled dust can act like concrete in the lungs hindering normal lung expansion/gas exchange (kind-of like black lung disease that miners get).

They also have some additional rocks, fake cacti, and cholla wood. It may be anthropomorphic observation, but they seem to not "climb the walls" as much as when the cage was more barren.

Input · Food · Healthy uros like to eat. I used to write "I won't waste time duplicating other's advice here, but I will point out that not all uros are alike," but I feel I have to do so now because many people who read this page don't bother to look anywhere else.

Uro Diet

• No Iceberg Lettuce · Absolutely no nutritional value whatsoever. Iceberg lettuce takes up space in your lizard's stomach which could be occupied by something which will help her grow. Think of this as "crunchy air". Romaine is not much better! Avoid all lettuce.
• Dandelion greens and flowers · Dandelion greens are probably the most perfect food for uros. First, they are chock full o' nutrients and have almost a perfect 1:1 calcium to phosphorus ratio. Second, some reluctant eaters will leap towards the yellow dandelion flowers as though they were God's Gift to Uros. Lastly, they're free. If you cannot buy dandelions, be sure you pick them from a yard which you can absolutely 100% guarantee has been free from pesticides and herbicides for a full year.
• Dark, leafy greens · Collard greens, mustard greens, kale (although too much could lead to thyroid problems), etc. Greens should make up the bulk of the diet.
• Shredded carrots, parsnips, squash
• Edible flowers
• Birdseed · shelled birdseed
• Crickets or other herp food bugs · No more than 10% of the diet, once every week or two.

Please check the referenced uro pages for ideas. My two cannot care less about birdseed. Honestly, they do not consider it worthy of their notice. They also don't like mushy shredded vegetables like squash, but they enjoy shredded carrots, as you can see above.

However, they love kale, dandelion greens and flowers, thawed frozen mixed vegetables, and crickets. Uros are designed for hind-gut fermentation of their food, which means they are mainly herbivores. They do eat crickets with a passion and most uro keepers feed various insects in some form or another. I agree with this, mainly due to the fact that these guys would eat whatever was available in the desert, so mine get crickets every week or two. Crickets for iguanas are a bad idea, as the burst of protein can lead to significant problems (kidney failure, I believe). Green iguanas come from lushly vegetated areas where food has been plentiful for the last few million years. Uromastyx have had to make do with what was available.

Besides, it is so darned fun to watch them on the hunt!

Malis also tend to drag their food out of the bowl and through the sand before they're ready to eat. They seem to be more prone to do this than other species.

Input · Water · Yes, that's right. Uros generally do not need to have standing water in their enclosures. They are so efficient at obtaining water from their food, just the water which remains after rinsing the vegetables is plenty. This was one area which "just didn't seem right"...until I saw them urinate. My fears were allied at that point. While there are a few exceptions, a water bowl will usually be dumped over, trodden through, uprooted, and end up causing humidity problems.

The girl in the picture above is not parched or dehydrated, she's just shedding. If your uro seems to have trouble shedding, then a quick soak in shallow water might help. Some folks soak their uros every week. I do not.

Output · Things which come out of a Uromastyx · Granted, these things may also come out of other lizards, but we're talking about uros here! Here is a list of what happens when your uro arches his tail in that special way. (This section based on information submitted by Jason Mottern.)

• Clear Water · Reptile kidneys are incapable of producing hyperosmotic (simplified, salty) urine like in mammals. That's why excess hydration is expelled as clear water.
• Feces · You know it, you love it. It's one of the reasons why uro care isn't nearly as difficult for the "sensitive of nose" as, oh, dogs or cats.
• The yellowish white stuff · Nitrogenous wastes are excreted as an insoluble salt and uric acid at the end.
• Salt · This has got to be one of the most commonly asked questions from new uromastyx owners. Uros have salt glands around their nose which excrete other ions in their system and causes white salt crystals to form around their nose. As you change food items, the amount of this salt will increase and decrease. Sometimes it may be quite large. A gentle scrape should remove it easily. If there seems to be a build up in the nostril, wipe it with a damp Q-tip and it should dissolve or come right out. One of my uros has a propensity to try and eat the salt as I flick it off, so I try to be careful when doing that with her. Watch your fingers. Uromastyx bites are quite painful.
• Eggs · Please check the links below for more information on breeding. Unfortunately, my two uros seem to be females, so I could only repeat others' experience and techniques for breeding.

Thank you, that is all. :-)

Brumation · Uros will enter a period of reduced activity during the winter months. This is called brumation and is similar to, but not as complete as hibernation. They may come out only for a few minutes a day and eat very little food due to the reduced activity level.

This is completely normal and happens whether you want it to or not. In fact, brumation is required for breeding purposes in many/most reptiles to simulate conditions in the wild and result in viable sperm and eggs. You may maintain the exact same conditions in the cage as during the summer, but the lizards know. Brumation may last a month or two or three.

The Uro Retreat · Every animal needs a place to hide and feel secure. In the wild, a uro would have a fairly massive underground burrow with a narrow entrance. They tend not to stray too far from their home turf. When endangered, a quick run to the entrance, a few puffs to inflate their abdomen to wedge them inside, and voila!...instant fortress! It is truly a determined and rare predator which could get past that famous spiked tail and to the tasty morsel to which it is attached.

The burrow in a uromastyx cage should be just about the size of the lizard and resting directly on the bottom of the cage. Uros love to dig and have been known to burrow under dens and rocks and crush themselves in the process. Be sure that any heavy object in a uro cage passes through the substrate and rests directly on the cage bottom.

Handling · Malis generally tolerate handling and petting very well. In fact, my malis are about the tamest lizards you can find and they don't get handled very often. Your milage may vary. Bites are very rare, but are quite painful when they do happen. Just be careful and watch those earlobes! Miscellaneous · Here's where I will answer my Frequently Asked Questions.

Sexing Malis
You can tell by coloration...sorta. Look at pictures on the web and try to find one which matches. Male malis are usually dark black with yellow spots. Females are more subdued and sand colored. However, there are "male mimic females" and "female mimic males" which happen every so often. Basically, you can't tell for sure until they try to breed. Unfortunately, it's not like eclectus parrots where it's plainly definitely visible.

That Plastic Track on your cage
I keep getting this question, so I finally tracked down a mailorder source. You should be able to find this locally, but may want to contact KV directly at Knape and Vogt to find a local dealer to save shipping costs.

Courter Co
800-837-7550

Knape and Vogt Plastic Track
$5.73 set, top and bottom
72", tan or walnut (mine is walnut), shorter lengths available
part number P2417T-72

Happiness · If you open your life to a uromastyx and give her what she needs, you might just earn one of these appreciative grins in return. Strike a pose, babe!

Sources for Uromastyx · There are two choices when dealing with nondomesticated animals as pets: wild caught or captive bred. Wild caught animals are exactly what that term implies. They used to live on their own in the plains or the barren desert wasteland without cage walls to restrict their movements. Suddenly, they found themselves being chased by a large mammal which entrapped them in net. Surely, this was the end. Every instinct and nerve ending is telling her that she is about to die. The darkness of a cloth sack envelopes and a few weeks later the almost forgotten light brings with it the hope of food and freedom.

The lizard can see freedom, but can't get to it somehow. It doesn't make sense and adds to the confusion.

Sounds kind of stressful, doesn't it? Every animal was wild at one time. Taking animals from the wild is the only way to establish long term captive populations for breeding. We get into ecological trouble when we take more from the wild than nature can replace. The Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora regulates which animals or plants can be taken from the wild by listing species on different Appendices. All uromastyx are covered, however uromastyx maliensis is not specifically listed. This is probably due to the fact that maliensis is a recently described species and was formerly considered acanthinurus. Malis are generally the only species which are still being legally exported and rumor has it that Mali is about to close down. Recently, there have been large numbers of ornates being imported as well.

Captive bred animals are by far the superior choice when purchasing a herp, but they command a higher price for obvious reasons. What do you get for the extra money? A known history of the animal...and that's ultimately important. No internal parasites, no questions about transport conditions, and the peace of mind that your purchase does not adversely affect the environment which gave us these wonderful creatures. They are also safer purchases since breeders are personally concerned with how well their offspring do because it's a matter of personal pride.

Some breeders also offer WC specimens for sale which are long term captives and have been wormed and given proper care. These are well worth the money as long as it is from a reputable dealer. If you're thinking about purchasing a uro, ask about the care requirements. If they are not similar to the advice on this page, a red flag should go up. A dealer who does not know or cannot provide proper husbandry information probably lies about other things, as well!

One more thought on the subject: The people who caught, packed, shipped, and (possibly) imported a wild caught uromastyx know less about their proper care than you do after reading this page.

Breeders on the Web

Deer Fern Farms Doug Dix · Arlington, WA · An exceptionally nice website with photos of different species (and how I want the basement of my future house to look)

Various individuals on the Uromastyx Mailing list have babies to adult breeders for sale as well.

Ben Watson still screwing people!
I just received the following in an email:
"I also wanted to comment about your little "friend" Ben. I know exactly who you're talking about. He started IMing me last year trying to get info on how to raise chameleons. Well, loving reptiles as much as I do I tried my hardest to give him the best information I had as well as some of the best links. He was a royal pest and always asked the same questions over and over again. I finally had to ignore him and after a couple weeks he went away. Now this year I see him posting all of these for sale ads. It scares me. Not to mention that I know another young kid out here in L.A. that decided to buy from him. I warned him, but he didn't listen. Well, he bought a female veiled, and 24 hours later she was dead. Big surprise huh? Ben refused to reimburse him for the animal or shipping using the same excuse "I'm just a kid and I don't have that kind of money". There's got to be something that we can do to keep him from posting for sale ads on all these classified lists."

Where are this kids' parents??? What kind of scum bags let their kid get away with this???

Warning! However, do not buy anything from Ben M. Watson either through the uromastyx list or kingsnake.com. He is a 14 year old kid (probably 15 or 16 now) who consistently rips people off and kills lizards in the process. He sold a high yellow morrocan, but shipped a small mali. His parents refuse to get involved in his business dealings. If you get screwed, remember that you cannot sue a minor. I've had no direct dealings with Ben Watson. Thankfully, I never will.

Don't be an idiot. Don't buy from this child in Sacramento, California.

As of November 28, 2000, Ben was using the email address veilds@juno.com according to this posting on EGroups.

Ask yourself "What kind of breeder ships reptiles in uninsulated containers in the middle of winter?", "What kind of breeder can't tell the difference between a morroccan and a mali uromastyx?", and "What kind of breeder refuses to make restitution when shipping the wrong species of animal or sick animals?"

Possible answers might include:

• An unethical breeder who is intentionally trying to rip people off
• An unknowledgable breeder who honestly doesn't know that what he is doing is wrong
• A breeder who is not familiar with uromastyx
• Other answers here _________________________________________.

Here is what one of his customers wrote to the mailing list:
Last week we bought 3 Mali's from someone on the list. We won't name any names (but you know who you are.) We told this person not to ship until we let them know it was ok. The same day we came home to an e-mail saying that he had sent them. The next day they arrived via USPS, in a thin cricket box, with very large holes in it, shredded newspaper, and the 3 Mali's stapled up in lunch bags amidst the newspaper. there were a few hand-warmers in the box, but they were cold, and they didn't do any good anyway, as the box was not insulated. Oh yea - the clincher is that we live in North Carolina and he didn't check the weather or anything, and it just happened to be one of the coldest days we've seen here in 3 winters.

So anyway, one Mali looked healthy, one looked so-so, and one was EXTREMELY underweight. (We've named her Kate Moss, because she'd be pretty if she just gained some weight.) When they arrived, they weighed 239g, 230g, and 160g. They are all around 7" STV. We e-mailed this guy to tell him that we were very upset about how they looked, and he had the nerve to e-mail us back that they were all fat, healthy, and "eating like pigs" the day before.

Right.

On Sunday, we noticed that the largest was breathing funny, then she started gasping for air, and then she died. I took them all to the vet on Monday. The vet did an autopsy and said that she was ridden with hookworms, her liver had white spotting (wasn't sure what that was), something was wrong with her spleen, her kidneys looked small, and her lungs were very inflamed. He said that she died of pneumonia, which took over her body in a short time (about 3 days).

Update: The parties above finally received a $50 check to replace the uro which died immediately. The other uro which died was not refunded because it had been in their care for a week, but remember they were all fat, healthy, and "eating like pigs" the day before according to the 14 year old.

The list member who reports buying a high yellow moroccan uromastyx and being shipped a juvenile mali requested a refund for this very serious error.
Ben's answer was that he was 14 and could not afford to pay back these mistakes.

That's some good parenting, huh?????

It is my non-professional opinion that Ben violated Section 597 of the California Penal Code by shipping the uro in winter without a heat source:
§ 597. Cruelty to animals

(a) Except as provided in subdivision (c) of this section or Section 599c, every person who maliciously and intentionally maims, mutilates, tortures, or wounds a living animal, or maliciously and intentionally kills an animal, is guilty of an offense punishable by imprisonment in the state prison, or by a fine of not more than twenty thousand dollars ($20,000), or by both the fine and imprisonment, or, alternatively, by imprisonment in the county jail for not more than one year, or by a fine of not more than twenty thousand dollars ($20,000), or by both the fine and imprisonment.

From http://www.animal-law.org/statutes/california.htm

Other Web Links

Uromastyx Mailing List · The source for help and ideas

Melissa Kaplan's Herp Care Information Page · the best collection of herp related information on the web. If it's not covered here, it's not covered anywhere. Many useful pages for complete beginners.

Troy Jone's Ornates Spinytails Home Page Troy Jones - Arlington, Texas

Karnivor's Uro Page In-depth articles on the care of reptilian pets and related topics including Uromastyx, bearded and frilled dragons, tegu species, boas, incubator construction, and much more. Eric now manages the Uromastyx Home Page, too!

Drop by for a more comprehensive list of links.

Quickies · or a few uromastyx absolutes
There are many items of uro husbandry which are subject to debate or personal opinion. I've tried to outline these above. Here are a few absolutes which may help you point out problem areas in care methods.

• Do feed your uro a varied, primarily vegetarian diet with crickets making up no more than 10% of the total diet.
• Do provide the proper heat gradient and a suitably large escape proof cage.
• Do give your uro a direct path to UV-B (or if you're an expert, supplement with D3).
• Do change your UV-B lamps twice a year. The special phosphors which emit the UV-B burn up long before the lamp will fail.

• Do not feed your uromastyx iceberg or romaine lettuce, cabbage, broccoli, anything which causes gas, or "something you found outside" unless you can guarantee that the ground has been herbicide and pesticide free for at least a year.
• Do not use crushed walnut substrate. Ever!
• Do not house your uro in a twenty gallon tank unless it is an emergency. It absolutely cannot provide the proper heat gradient.
• Do not use hot rocks, heatrocks, or sizzle stones! They are all cheaply made, subject to shorting out and causing a fire, and can kill your lizard via second, third, and fourth degree burns. (Yes, I said "fourth". That's where the skin burns away and the muscle beneath starts to go next.) Hotrocks are a bad design from the start. Reptile brains don't associate the pain from flesh charring with the heat, so they don't move.
  and on a personal note
  
• Do not send me any email telling me that I'm wrong about hotrocks or walnut bedding. These points are clear. They are fact and not open to debate. People from the uro mailing list have lost lizards due to walnut shells shredding lizard intestines from the inside. Reptiles and Amphibians Magazine ran an article complete with horrifying pictures of reptiles damaged from hotrocks. If you choose to ignore this and send email anyway, look for your name and email address to appear in this space for some good old fashioned public humiliation.

Somewhere around have visited this page and learned something! Note: If you linked to a specific section of the page, this counter will appear quite low. The actual number of hits is approaching (or over) 17,000!

Support this page! Show me that you care! :-)
Donate today!

I love to hear how my many hours of work have helped with something or made someone else's life on this planet better. It makes it all worthwhile.

Feedback Guidelines ·

No more questions!!!

Check the page! Check the page! Check the page! Check the page! Check the page!

No matter how nicely I word it, no matter how nicely I try to put it, too many people rush to this email form without reading a single word that I've typed.

I am therefore, no longer accepting any questions. Period. You can ask, but I will not answer them. The only kind of Uromail I'm interested in reading is the Thank You Note variety...and they are few and far between!

This page is a hobby which lets me spread good information about these great animals. There is no guarantee of a speedy response. Sometimes it happens immediately if I'm at the computer when you send email; often I am not. Sometimes it takes a few days or a lot of days. Since this a hobby and not a job, it gets treated accordingly. I average about four emails per day from this page alone, most of which require a few minutes for a good response. So, you can see how UroMail piles up quickly.

But hey, if you want to send me $10 via PayPal for a consultation, I'll be happy to talk to you on the phone! Please realize that I have a new house with a pool and it's darned hot (but it's a dry heat) in Las Vegas, so there is a good chance I'm outside enjoying it. Like the uros, I love it hot!

If you have an urgent question, you should ask the Uro List.

Hopefully, that didn't sound too negative. I enjoy feedback, especially if you learned anything from this page.

Also, drop by my home page for fun and hilarity.

© November 7, 2001 · Jason William Creager

Notice to Petstores/Breeders or anyone who sells uromastyx
I personally applaud you for taking the initiative to provide your customers with quality uromastyx care information! This Mali's Uromastyx Care Sheet is a document covered by the copyright laws of the United States of America and has been under copyright since its initial publication. Any business venture is licensed to print out and distribute copies of this caresheet only under the following conditions:

1. No fee is charged for said document.
2. The document must be reproduced in its entirety.
3. You may not edit or change any information related herein. This specifically includes all references to heatrocks and crushed walnut substrate. You also may not contradict that information in order to make a sale. I care more about the animals than I care about your $5 profit from an item that could likely kill it.
4. You may not imply that this information is your own, nor may you imply that I endorse your specific enterprise.
5. You must provide a copy of the caresheet to anyone who requests it whether they have purchased a uro from you or not. If you cannot provide a copy at that time, you must provide them with a link to this webpage.
6. You should tell the customer to check this website for updates and do more research on their animal. Also, you should update your store copy every month or so.
7. You must Contact Me me to let me know you are distributing copies of this caresheet.
8. If I should ever purchase an animal from you, some kind of reasonable discount is in order.